Oil and Water

The first two parts of this road trip centered largely on great lines on the map, the San Andreas Fault, El Camino Real, Route 66. The last part of this terrific road trip was less about a particular road. Instead it followed another vital path  in the state: Water. The route takes us out of the desert, returning to Bakersfield, before heading north along the edge of the Sierras, and into Sequoia National Park. The following day: a cross section of California, starting high in the mountains, down to the Central Valley and then home. Here’s the route:

This drive is one of those only in California experiences of waking in the desert, going for a robust desert hike, and ending the day in the Sierras.  There was one last stop in the desert, which segues to this post: the vowel challenged settlement of Zyzyx. Sitting at the edge of a dry-lake in the Mohave, this one-time health resort is now a desert research center. The bizarre center has echoes of its resort past, the lush grounds in stark contrast to the otherwise vast, dry landscape, in short, one more desert oasis. From here , we rose out of the desert, and make our way north on towards Sequoia. 

For many of us coastal Californians, travel through the cental valley often means blasting through it to get from San Francisco to LA, or San Francisco to the Sierras.. Well, my destination today was the Sierras, but, after traveling on Route 66, today we travel on the less known Route 65. This highway hugs the foothills, and is its own faultline I suppose, the plains stretch out to the left, the mountains to the right. Driving on this road, one bears  witness to the source of much of what keeps the state going; agriculture, oil, water , and eventually, timber.

We first pass through Oildale, this was a remarkable photo I found……….its a well-named place……….. the landscape is devastated.

Further north, the landscape settles into a particularly scenic section of the Central Valley, gently undulating foothills, amply planted. And one passes through several charming small towns. Urban Ambles tripped over an amazing old Atlantic Richfield Station in Lemon Grove, and , incredibly, another roadside orange. Here are a few photos:

I spent the night at a beautiful retreat owned by the catholic diocese of Fresno. I passed the evening with several clergy, chatting about fishing and weather. The final day of my journey would begin at the retreat tomorrow, I was excited to be heading up into Sequoia Park before heading home. As I was leaving for my room, I saw this bumper sticker in the parking lot, and ,was suddenly reminded how far I was from home. 

 

 

 

 

Following The Water

The final leg begins at the in the heart of Sequoia National park. This less-traveled park is a gem, particularly on a Wednesday. What wasn’t lacking were bears. You are amply warned in this park about the abundance of bears, and it took Urban Ambles all of about 45 minutes to  encounter one. My photographer ran instantly, and I was left to face the beast down  myself. I gradually settled him down, and was able to continue  my hike. I later described the encounter to the park ranger, an amateur artist apparently. This was his rendition of the bear, and I have issues with it, his tie was not green:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At any rate, we are following the water, not the bears. Today, we are descending through the abundant glories  of California. Snow still melting off the granite (granite that  has appeared in so many California bank buildings), as we descend, both on foot and by car, along the river and between the great,extraordinary sequoias trees. Sierra rivers generally become tamed as we make our way to the valley. Often in the foothills, a reservoir is created, a haven for recreation, before finally reaching the valley, and at least one of its uses, as irrigation. 

 

 

Which brings is back to the beginning. As I drove through the valley, I began to see these signs. They confused me- were they were referring to the 30′. No it is a lament about current state water policy, sacrificing farms for more water on the coast, as well as protecting fish habitats. Though I would argue the sprawl in the valley is as guilty. Apparently some farmers have dug up there crops, which I think explains these trees. What a sad site. 

 

 

Dust Bowl?

 

 I started thinking about what it must be like to live in the Valley. For years, California politics have been dominated by the coastal cities, and a lot of resentment has built up in the Valley. And  that leads us back to our bumper sticker. So, what of gay marriage? Well, that same day, I found out the Supreme Court upheld Prop 8.

So why is the state in the married business to begin with? In my view, the state should be sanctioning civil unions, and civil unions only, for ALL people in the state , gay or straight, with all the current rights and protections in place. If you then wish to have this union blessed by the church of y0ur choice, then do it. But the idea that ministers  certify marriages for the state, it ain’t right, and even moreso because it excludes many of us, its unconstitutional.

I pulled off for one last rest. I had been listening to talk radio, and out here, they were celebrating the day’s ruling. I needed a break. But my day began with the wonderful people at the retreat, surely they..No, I was on the other side of the water right at the moment.

I sat  along I-5, the water sufficiently tamed ,   destined for farms and homes.  I was now very close to home, and it had been a wonderful week. Through  plains,  desert, and mountains, I had followed a few of the many amazing threads through  the state. Had it changed me? Well , my left forearm was sunburn beyond recognition, I felt entirely fed up with the awful venom of talk radio, and I realized how much I loved fresh artichokes. And I couldn’t stop thinking of the potential of selling oranges roadside from inside a  orange- I smelled a new gig . Oh Glorious California!